AelixD 1 points 1h ago
Tides are caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon (mostly) and Sun (less). And then affected by the local geography and hydrography.
The moon is pulling the Earth towards it. The rocky part of the Earth is pretty rigid, so we don’t typically notice the pull of the moon there. But the oceans, being made of water, are more fluid. So where the moon is directly overhead, the oceans are pulled the highest. As the Earth rotates towards the moon, the oceans are being pulled towards the moon, causing the tide to rise.
However, there is also a high tide on the side of the Earth opposite the moon. This is caused by inertia. If the rocky part of the earth was a perfectly smooth ball, it would be entirely covered in ocean. And there would be just one high tide, directly under the Moon (not completely true, due to friction, but we’ll ignore that). Now, remember what happens in a bathtub when you push all the water to one side. It goes up to a height based on how hard you pushed (if you’re my younger brother, this was hard enough to get a lot of water out of the tub and onto the floor, but the moon is more disciplined). Once it was done rising, it comes back down. But it doesn’t stop immediately at its lowest level. Instead it sloshes to the other side of the tub. The oceans are shaped like bath tubs, and the moon can only pull them so far up the coast. Once that part of the Earth rotates past the moon, the pull lessens, and the water rushes to the other side of the ocean. (This is over simplified, but you get the general idea).
So there is a really high tide (the Higher High tide) under the moon, and a lesser high tide (the Lower High tide) opposite the moon. If you imagine a simple drawing of an egg you could picture a circle inside of an oval, with the pointier bulge of the egg in the direction of the moon. This roughly represents the rocky earth inside of the oceans.
The combination of the Moon’s movement and the Earth’s rotation means that the Moon rises, on average, 54 minutes later each day. So the tides change time each day by about the same amount. So a high tide every 12 hours 27 minutes (roughly) and a full tidal cycle every 24 hours 54 minutes.
Now, all of what we said about the moon applies to the sun, but not as strongly. So make another drawing of an egg, but this time aligning the oval in the direction of the sun. These two eggs work together or against each other. When the moon snd sun are in line with each other (new moon and full moon) the ovals combine and create the highest tides, called Spring Tides (nothing to do with the season… think more like a spring in your step). When the sun and moon are 90 degrees apart, the bulging ovals are working against each other, and you get the lowest high tides, called Neap Tides.
Low tides are 90 degrees or 6ish hours offset from the high tides.
The shape of the land has a strong effect on how extreme the tidal height is. Islands in the middle of the ocean have a negligible height difference, because the ocean flows freely past them. Tidal range in Hawaii is about a foot or two. On the edges of the ocean are the coasts, which stop the water from moving all the way around the Earth, so the water pushes to its maximum height, then falls back away. But in a lot of coastlines, you have deep inlets or bays, and the water channels snd focuses there. So you end up with even higher tides. The Bay of Fundy is famous for this effect.
Thee’s a lot of variance to what I’ve said based on the exact orbit of the moon, shape of the coastline, and time of year (which affects which way the Earth is tilting in relation to the Sun).